There is a lot of confusion about the term “Vintage Jewelry” or “Vintage Jewellery”. Let me try to clarify this issue for you once and for all and give you the proper definition of this term plus a few others related to jewelry.

For a piece of jewelry to be authentic vintage it must be at least 20 years old. Some dealers and collectors classify vintage as 25 years or more. One cannot make “vintage jewelry” as it has to be at least that old. You can use vintage parts, beads and findings but that does not make your jewelry vintage as it does not make it old. If it is made today, it is new Contemporary Jewelry.

When defined as Vintage at our Vintage Jewelry Site, it means that piece is 20 years old or older. When you shop with us, if a piece is called Vintage it is authentic Vintage, at least 20 years old. For the current time frame, jewelry of the 1980s can be classified as Vintage as it falls between the 20 and 25 years old parameter. Jewelry from the 1990s or newer is not vintage yet.

Antique Jewelry must be 100 years or older. If it isn’t that old, than it is vintage, even if it looks older. If it is not 20 years or older than it is neither vintage nor antique.

If a piece of jewelry is a worthy piece but not 20 years old, than it is defined as pre-owned until it reaches the minimum threshold of 20 years of age to become Vintage.

Unfortunately, these terms are used, misused and over-used to describe many styles made today. That is not correct.

For Contemporary Jewelry with a vintage or antique flair, they should be described as vintage inspired jewelry, vintage style jewelry, antique inspired jewelry or antique style jewelry, even if parts of the jewelry made today are old.

The terms upcycled and recycled jewelry could apply to Contemporary Jewelry if the bulk of the piece is old. It requires that a complete (broken or not) old piece be used as the core for a new design. I would certainly hope that anyone making Upcycled Jewelry would use a broken old piece that cannot be repaired and not destroy a perfectly good old piece of jewelry to make something new, unless it can be easily reversed. I do use old hopelessly broken vintage and antique jewelry to create some of my new designs. I have seen several designs made today from perfectly good and quite valuable old jewelry. Some of these are sold at a lower price than the original older piece is worth!

I have been in the jewelry business for a long time, both as a designer and as dealer. I carry both Vintage and Antique Jewelry and sometimes use vintage and antique parts in my new contemporary jewelry.

Whatever definition is used in our jewelry site, rest assured we have invested lots of time researching and are absolutely positive of the authenticity of the jewelry being offered.

Hope this helps to clarify this issue!

Valentine’s Day is almost here and you still don’t have a gift? Some suggestions:

Vintage Carved Moonstone Moon Face Ring 14k Gold

Blissfully Smiling Full Moon Carved Moonstone 14 k Gold Ring

This gorgeous ring is Vintage. It was treasured and very well cared for.  It is beautifully made, the carving is detailed and done with great care. Full of joy and contentment, just like she makes you feel

Buying Vintage is also a wonderful way to shop green this Valentine’s Day or anytime.  Show her you care for our planet too.

Vintage Pauline Trigere Rhinestone Doube Stars Brooch

You might also give her the stars!  This beautiful pave rhinestone vintage brooch is by famous designer Pauline Trigere.  She will be so impressed you know about rare Vintage Costume Jewelry and Important Designers!

This is a gorgeous vintage signed brooch and sparkles like her eyes do when she sees you!

We have many other choices, you can visit our site for other Vintage Jewelry

We ship very fast (even in a snow storm as long as USPS is running) and we gift wrap it for you at no charge!

She will love to see you took your time and made a wonderful choice!

Scratch Testing Gold – What is not written on the test kit instructions

Over the years of buying lots, jewelry boxes and estates,  little bits and pieces of Antique and Vintage jewelry accumulate. Some of it can be solid gold, some of it can be just plated or gold filled.

Sometime ago, I decided to cash in on these and sent them to my trusted buyer to be melted. There was quite an amount and I thought I was in for a small treasure.  Much to my disappointment, 1/3 of it was not solid gold!  I had tested each tiny piece by scratching it on the test stone, following the given directions and it had reacted as gold should, so how come it was not right?

As it turns out, rubbing the piece or removing shavings from it is not a sure way to test. Read on and I will share my secret.

The Basics:

It is important to note that gold filled or rolled gold and gold plated are not the same. They are very different and have very different values.  Gold filled or rolled gold actually has a gold content. The gold content in plated jewelry is negligible.

The process for making Gold Filled is similar to making a sandwich.  One or two sheets of gold and one sheet of base metal are layered. Generally speaking, brass is used for Yellow Gold Filled and Copper is used for Rose Gold Fill.  If two sheets of gold are used, the base metal will be in the middle (like a sandwich).  The sheets are then heated and passed through a rolling mill, hence the name rolled gold.  The heat and pressure cause the sheets to bond permanently.

Gold plated is a different process all together. The jewelry or metal piece is attached to a wire on the negative side, a piece of pure gold is attached to the positive side of the same wire.  The two ends are submerged into a special liquid (plating solution). A low voltage current is then applied. The current causes gold molecules to move from the pure gold to the surface of the metal being plated.  Older antique and vintage jewelry tends to have a thicker layer of gold, but as you can tell from the process itself, that layer is still very thin, generally 7 microns for better quality. Nowadays, most plating is done with a maximum of 3 microns. A micron is one thousand of a millimeter. That’s really thin!

Back to our testing for gold and silver content with an acid test kit.

First let me start with a very big warning:

Use extreme caution! Always follow test kit manufacturer instructions and use loads of common sense.

• These chemicals are dangerous, they are acids and very destructive, they burn the skin and surfaces of furniture.
• Do not leave where children and pets can reach them.
• Work in a well ventilated area. Do not breath the fumes or stand with your face right above the testing area. Do not let it splash.
• Wear goggles to protect your eyes. Do not get it on your skin!
• Do not allow testing liquids to touch gemstones, enamel or any ornamentation on the jewelry.
• Always start with the 10k Gold Testing Solution and go up from there as described below.
• If the piece is of lower than 10k it might be damaged as well.

Testing for gold with an acid test kit:

Clean the piece well.  Examine every area of it carefully with a jeweler’s loupe. If you see that the edges or high profile areas are a different color you can probably stop there, the piece is gold plated.  Another sign to look for is the quality of manufacturing. For instance, very rarely you will you see gold necklaces that do not have soldered links. I have never seen one, all of the vintage and antique gold necklaces I have had had soldered links.

Look for quality marks. I test all jewelry, even when it is marked. Until the 1980s it was acceptable to have some variation on the gold content per karat. So you may come across jewelry marked 14k that might have a content as low as 12k!  Once or twice, I also tested jewelry fully marked 14k and it was just plated.

Now you have looked at the piece carefully and there is no indication that it is plated, no costume jewelry company name on it, no metal quality mark.  We go to the next step.

Some very important things to keep in mind:

The acid can destroy or at least damage the piece of jewelry tested if it is not solid gold. Be extremely careful and try to find an area where it will be seen the least.  Make sure to have a clear surface for the test stone. Have some Baking Soda handy to neutralize the acid right away. Place some in a shaker or small cup, have it with you while testing.

Because gold filled has a thick layer of gold, rubbing it on the test stone is sometimes not enough to determine if a piece is gold filled or solid gold. My experience is that the older it is the thicker is the layer of gold.

You need to make a tiny incision in a hidden area. Using a single edge razor blade, carefully make a small but fairly deep cut, no bigger than 1/16″ . Take care not to go through it!  What you want to do is to get to the metal underneath the surface layer. At that spot, drop the smallest of drops and wait a second or two.  If it turns green you can stop, it is gold filled. It will bubble like crazy. As soon as you see the green color throw some baking soda on it to neutralize the acid. Do not breathe any fumes. Then wash the piece well and polish with a Sunshine Cloth (not affiliated, just think it does a great job).  If instructions are followed carefully you should have no problem returning the piece to it’s original condition and removing all the marks, if any, left by the testing liquid.

If you had no reaction with the gold testing acid, congratulations!  The piece is solid gold and now we will determine what karat it is.

Take the test stone that comes with the kit.

Choose an area on the jewelry you want to test that is not easily seen. Rub it carefully and evenly to create a fairly healthy streak on the stone. Avoid keeping the same spot against the stone as it will sand down the surface. Drop the 10k Gold Testing Liquid on to the streak on the stone. If the color of the scratch remains unchanged, it is 10k or higher. Proceed by repeating the process using the 14k Testing Solution. If the scratch color remains unchanged, it is at least 14k and you should repeat the process with liquids for 18k and until 22k or 24k solution, whichever is included in your test kit.  When the color changes from one step to the next the last karat solution which caused no change is the karat gold for the jewelry you are testing.

It is always good to replace the test kit with a new one about every 6 months.  I have been told the liquid gets stronger with time, which would cause a karat reading lower than the actual karat weight of the jewelry being tested.

And one more reminder:  Use extreme caution and loads of common sense!

Please also note that I am not responsible for any mishaps that might occur. This is how I do it and I am just sharing my experience. There maybe a better way for you. And if you do not feel comfortable doing this, by all means, bring it to your trusted jeweler and have him or her do it for you.

Be aware of fake Kenneth Jay Lane jewelry in the marketplace. I recently purchased a KJL rhinestone butterfly brooch, even though the colors looked a bit odd for his designs.  It was pretty, so I bought it.

Back at the studio I started the cleaning process as I do with each piece I offer for sale, prior to doing the research involved in each listing. When I started to hand polish the back, the name tag fell out! It was glued and not soldered!

So carry your loupe with you and make sure to check the area around the tag for the solder. If it is not soldered, it is not authentic!

This one is an authentic early 1960′s necklace.  Note the soldering around the tag, there is no gap.

KJL Kenneth Jay Lane Vintage 1960s India Inspired Long Necklace

Notice the solder puddle around the tag, this is authentic.

If you have a question, please post a comment.

Who would know that your finds could be an investment? I am not an investment expert, so see these two shows by Consuelo Mack Wealthtrack which aired on PBS. Ms. Mack was voted Best Business Host by Money Magazine.

Of particular interest to this blog are the appearances by Patrizia Di Carrobio, Jewelry Expert and Dealer. Her history is amazing, from Italy to America. Her grandmother shared a New York apartment with Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s and begin consulting wealthy Americans on Fashion and Lifestyle choices. Patrizia moved to the US in 1980 and begin her career at Christie’s where she became one of Christie’s first women auctioneers.  Her taste in impeccable, her  opinions are practical and valuable. I really enjoy her appearances and I trust you will too.

The first video was made in the Spring of 2008.  The second is from March 2009.  Both are timeless and have great information for all categories of Arts, Jewelry and Collectibles.  More information about this show can be found at PBS.org, your local Public Television station or at wealthtrack.com

Don’t feel bad when buying Vintage Jewelry or Collectibles. A wise purchase can be a palpable investment you will wear or enjoy for many years to come.

Vintage Jewelry as an Investment Videos.  To learn more about Patrizia visit her site at PatriziadiCarrobio.com

Now have hubby watch it with you

Olaf Skoogfors was born in Sweden in 1930. Early in his childhood, he moved to the United States with his family, settling in Philadelphia, PA. His father was a mechanical engineer, but Olaf wanted to make things with his hands.

In 1959 he opened his own studio in Philadelphia as an independent jewelry artist. One of his favorite techniques was lost wax technique, but he also liked to create directly on the metal.

He also used fusing, reticulation and chasing, which are exemplified in the cuff bracelet presented below. What I find so amazing about it is that it is a hollow piece. It is also heavy and weighs almost 1.5 dwt oz (45 grams).

The challenge of creating a dimensional hollow piece comes from the fusing or soldering of the parts together. The air inside is heated by the torch and if there is no escape, the item will deform and in some extreme cases, explode.

There is no visible escape point on this hollow bracelet. It also has a smooth portion angled into a very refined textured area, increasing the visual volume and adding interest to the piece. The inside surface is chased in a tree bark like pattern.

Olaf Skoogfors led a distinguished career as a metalsmith. He taught at Temple University and had many exhibitions. Skoogfors passed away in 1975 at the early age of 45. His work is quite rare and very sought after.

I found two other pieces by him on the web. They are:

Sterling Bird Brooch and my favorite, a very sculptural brooch.

You just hit the jackpot and have tons of new goodies or your precious faux gems have spent some time in the jewelry box and don’t look their best. Do not fret! Here is a guide to bring those beauties to the most sparkly state.

How do you clean Costume Vintage Jewelry?
Very carefully!

This is what is done to every piece of vintage jewelry, costume or fine, that we sell:

The cleaning process depends on which type of jewelry you have. Never dip sterling, never soak rhinestones. I use a soft nail brush bought at the dollar store and Windex. Spray the brush very lightly. It has to be almost dry. Pat onto a towel or paper towel to remove the excess luquid. Gently brush the piece. Use a magnifier to make sure it’s clean and to inspect the jewelry as you work.

I prefer the Windex with Ammonia, does a great job and removes grime. Get the name brand, it will be cheaper in the long run as it is concentrated and does a better job.

Be prepared to re-glue some stones as they may fall out in the process. They were going to fall out anyway, this just speeds the process and you don’t loose them. Clean over a box lid so if they come of they will be safe. The glue to be used should not be the crazy-glue type. This types of glue eat the foil on the rhinestone, making it dull. The best glue is Hypo Cement. You can find it at hobby shops, craft stores and on line.

For pieces that do not have rhinestones or glued parts, I place them in a plastic bowl, spray with Windex (blue one) swish a few times and rinse. We have hard water here so the final rinse is filtered. Shake them gently by holding the whole piece in your cupped hands or a colander to remove the excess water. Lay them on a big plastic tray (also from the dollar store) over an old towel and air dry. You could use paper towels too but we are all for green living, so an old towel or t-shirt is best.

Do not soak faux pearls, wash or brush. It could ruin it. Spray a soft rag or paper towel (an old t-shirt is great and re-usable), dab not rub, make sure the fabric is not soaked but rather slightly damp.
If you are unsure about the type of thread used on a beaded necklace, it is best not to soak it. Spray a cloth with the cleaner and wipe the necklace clean instead.

This vintage jewelry has been cleaned this way. As you can see a lot of work and love goes into bringing this jewelry to you. I love jewelry but hate dirt!

Over the last 3 decades I have collected a large number of Amber, Copal, Lucite, Bakelite and Crystal/glass beads and jewelry. Many look very similar. How can you tell them apart? Here are some clues to use on the go and some definitive tests to do at home:

Amber is lightweight, warm to the touch and sometimes has inclusions. Amber is fossilized sap from extinct pine trees. It actually feels more like plastic or Lucite than rock or glass. Bakelite is very heavy. Genuine Amber floats in Salt Water. The population on the shores of the Baltic Sea can collect it as it rolls in with the tide, mostly after a storm. Some Amber is mined and there are mines in different places on the planet including the Dominican Republic. I have some of that too in my collection but prefer the Baltic Amber. The Dominican one has a different feel.

Amber under a black light will give off a soft blue fluorescence.

Amber floats in salty water.

Be wary of reconstituted Amber! If you see several shiny disks inside the “Amber” it is more than likely reconstituted or imitation. These are uncommon in natural Amber as they are actually droplets of water that dispersed creating the little disks and are “frozen” inside. Inclusions of animals can be added to this process. Natural Flora and Fauna inclusions are naturally rare, more so these days.

Green Amber is heated to achieve that color and not natural. Don’t be fooled as much of it will fade into a horrible murky color over time.

Amber is harder and will flake. You can’t simply slice it and it is very tricky to drill (I can speak from experience here). If a slice of the item in question comes off easily (like a slice of cheese) it’s not Amber.

Copal is called “immature” sap because although very similar to Amber, it has not fossilized and is not million of years old, more than likely comes from another tree since the trees that formed Baltic Amber have been extinct for a very long time. It is soft, slices easily, burns easily. If you take a red hot needle to Copal it will melt easily and also have that wonderful pine scent. When you try this test on Amber you will have a hard time getting the hot needle to go in. Amber is much harder, burns slower and emits a white smoke. It smells wonderful and has been used as incense for thousands of years.

Bakelite is heavy. It is an early plastic made using formaldehyde. Since formaldehyde is a deadly substance, Bakelite’s production has been halted for decades. It’s easy to tell real Bakelite and Bakelite from Amber. In a bowl that is heat resistant add very hot water, it’s ok to use the tap as long as it is very hot but not boiling. Dip the piece in question into the water for a second or two. Bakelite will almost immediately have a terrible smell. When in doubt dip again, wait a bit longer. Be careful not to melt the piece and make sure to try it in a place where it will not be easily seen. I just open the hot tap and let it run until it gets so hot I can’t keep my fingers in it. Then I hold a portion of the piece under the running water and check for the horrible and unmistakable smell. If you can smell that, it’s most likely Bakelite. (You just learned the sure fire Bakelite test, better than anything else, used on the Antiques Road Show too!) French Bakelite is different and will not emit the smell as it is actually made from milk derivatives. Do the hot needle test instead.

Imitations such as Resin, Bakelite, French Bakelite, Plastics, Lucite and others are affected by solvents. Dab a cotton swab in Acetone. I use industrial strength stuff as some of the nail polish removers nowadays are mild. I like the pure acetone for a definitive test. You can get it at almost any drugstore, supermarket and beauty supply shop, you probably have some at home. Rub the wet cotton swab on a hidden spot on the necklace( between 2 beads in the back for instance) The imitation materials will come off on the cotton swab, leave a mark on the material surface, melt or become tacky and opaque. Genuine Amber is unaffected, remains shiny and nothing comes off on the cotton swab.

Glass and crystal are heavy and cold, Amber is warm to the touch and light for it’s size.

There are other means of testing Amber in laboratories, but the guidelines given here should be enough. Just remember to be safe and careful and test only on a hidden area. Some of these tests are destructive and can cause damage to the piece.